Sunday, June 24, 2012

The Wedding Dress

Selecting Your Bridal Gown.

To go shopping for the bridal gown,
 well, it's the stuff, "fairy tales" are made of. 
It will be a day you will never forget. 
You will feel regal like the heroine in "Cinderella." 
It will be all your mother can do to keep from crying when you walk out of the dressing room. 
If possible, you and your Mother should do this together. 
Your mother has also dreamed of this special day in your life.
Remember these basic rules.

 1. Soon after you become officially engaged
 begin shopping for your gown. 
 2. After you, your fiancee, and your families agree on the type of wedding to plan, the date and time, you will know if the wedding is formal or semi formal. (guide line below)

Formal


Formal:
   Place -  A Church, Cathedral, or Chapel.
   Officiating - Clergyman, or Rabbi
   Time -  Evening or Afternoon.
   Invitations - Engraved.
   Dress -  Floor length gowns for brides or bridesmaids.
 Tuxedos for grooms, groomsmen and best man.

Semi-Formal


Semi-Formal:
   Place - Destination, Home, Garden, Barn etc.
   Officiating -- Justice of the Peace, a Judge, or Clergyman.
   Time - Any, but a morning wedding is never formal.
   Invitations - Any formal or informal.
   Dress - Semi- Formal attire or Destination for brides  and bridesmaids.
Men's suits, for grooms and groomsman. It also depends on the location. Jackets may not be required on the beach.


 3. You should purchase your bridal gown and veil,
 soon after the engagement is formally announced. 
It will take up to six months for the delivery of your gown. Many bridal salons and shops, 
have consultants on hand to assist you.
 Be sure to make an appointment with the consultant
 ahead of time if possible, and advise her of  the following; 
Time, Date, Formal or semi formal, and your size.
 She will be prepared to show you several gowns, make certain it is also a full service salon.

 4. In the past most gowns were constructed in Paris or U.S.
 Today, most are made in 3rd world countries such as China. Make certain your bridal gown is well constructed. 
Be sure that the bead work, and lace appliques are sewn on. 

 5. Take enough money with you when you shop, 
just in case you find that dream gown. 
Usually a 50% deposit is required.

 6. After the wedding be sure to write the consultant a thank you note or give a token (small gift) of your gratitude. 
After all she has assisted you in the purchase of the most important dress you will ever wear.

 7. When trying on gowns be sure to take heels, not flats or tennis shoes, or the gown will drag the floor if you are of medium height. After your grown is decided upon, always wear the heels for every fitting.
 8. Make sure to also take the correct undergarment, and wear them at each fitting. Such as strapless or backless bras.

9. Your alterations will need to be done in time for your “Formal Bridal portrait sitting” in the studio. This is at least 6 to 8 weeks before the wedding day.

10. Do not put a deposit on a gown you have not tried on. That could be a disaster.

11. Ask when the balance is due on your gown. Some salons will not start the alterations, until the dress is paid for in full.

12. Most bridal salons employ the best seamstresses
 to assure quality tailoring and will recommend 
that it be done as soon as possible.
 No matter how exquisite your gown, how flawless your face, how shiny your hair, you will not be the ultimate “Bride” if the fit is less than perfect. Remember the "Total Image."
 Your first fitting will last from 45 minutes to an hour. 
Your next 2 will last about 30 minutes. 
Usually 3 to 4 sittings are required. 
The alterations involve the sleeve length, hem length, and bodice to be taken in or let out.
 Salon seamstresses have completed and are certified.

13. Remember that there are several shades of white such as ivory, and diamond white. Choose one that is the most flattering to your skin tone.

14. WHEN YOUR LOWER BODY IS WIDER THAT YOUR UPPER BODY


          A full skirt minimizes heavy legs and hips
          A decorative bodice attracts attention to upper body
          A shaped neckline draws the eye upward
          An elongated waistline adds extra height
          Full sleeves extend shoulder line
          Avoid straight skirts and bulky fullness

WHEN YOUR BODY IS LONG AND NARROW


          A full shirt with horizontal detail adds width
          A sleek bodice balances a gently following skirt
          A gentle neckline broadens shoulder line
          Elaborate sleeves call eye outward
          Avoid high or dropped waists. Use detailing on either upper body or lower body but not both

WHEN YOUR UPPER BODY IS WIDER THAN YOUR LOWER BODY


          Special skirt interest calls eye downward.
          A simple bodice minimizes upper body.
          A modest neckline reduces upper body width.
          An elongated waistline adds extra height.
          Simple sleeves flatter the natural shoulder line.
          Avoid narrow skirts and severe high necklines.

WHEN YOUR BODY IS CURVACEOUS


          A softly gathered skirt balances a lightly embellished bodice.
          A deep neckline accents bustline.
          An open neckline flatters shoulders.
          A fitted waistline shows off a small waist.
          Off-the-shoulder sleeves add width.
          Avoid high necklines and waistlines. Use detailing on either upper body or lower body.


15. Make certain that your dress has a beautiful back. Normally the couple stands with their backs to the congregation for most of the wedding ceremony.

16. Remember that a gown with a train will make a lasting impression. There are 3 popular styles.
          a. The court or sweep length is the shortest and slightly brushes the floor.
          b. The Chapel length extends 1 1/2 yards from the waist.
          c. The Cathedral length extends at least 3 yards or more form waist or shoulders.
Most trains are hooked bustle-style for the reception, and some are detachable. There is no vision lovelier than a bride gliding the aisle, down to meet her bridegroom.

17. Fabrics are also part of the important decision, according to the season of course. The type of fabric also determines of cast of the gown. Brocade, Satin or Silk is always formal. Organza is crisp and airy. Chiffon is soft and romantic, taffeta is regale and festive.

18. Veils come in a great variety of styles and lengths.
          a. The Cathedral, extends 5 to 10 feet from head-peace. Some have Spanish or Belgian lace. The "Mantilla" veil is the only one with lace on the entire edges.
          b. Elbow length.
          c. Fingertip length.
          d. Birdcage point netting, an art deco style.
Almost every veil has a blusher. A blusher is a simple layer of netting worn over the face before and during the ceremony, and is lifted back by the groom at the end of the vow's, prior to the kiss, immediately after they are pronounced husband and wife.

19. The headpiece is the final touch. There are as many gorgeous styles today such as tiaras, hats, headbands, and romantic floral wreaths. They are made of bead work, lace, and even fur. It's your “crown for a day." Dramatic or simple, you make the choice carefully. Even if you have made a decision on a certain headpiece, take your time and try on a variety of styles. You might find one that you adore even more than  your first choice. Your headpiece should serve as the important accessory to your gown. It is your crowning touch. To show off your veil and headpiece make sure to have the best hairstyle possible.



 Wedding Dress
Silhouettes

A-line; Originated by Christian Dior, skirt flares away from the body from under arms to hem; fitted through shoulders. 

Ball gown; Narrow-waisted shape with a full, bell-shaped skirt supported by petticoats or hoops.

Empire; High-waisted, with the skirt falling from directly under the bust line.

Princess; Fitted through shoulders and bodice, skirt flares gently outward; no waistline.

Sheath; Svelte, narrow-fitting shape that contours the body; no waistline.

Suit; Modern shape finished with a jacket or coat.

Lengths

Ballerina; Falls to or slightly below the center of the calf.

Floor; Most traditional length, rests about an inch from the floor.

Knee; Nontraditional length

Mini; Above the knee

Waistlines

Basque; Sits at the natural waistline in the back and dips lower to form a V-shape in the front.

Dropped: Falls below the natural waistline in classic flapper style.
Natural: Sits at the waist.

Necklines

Bateau; Shallow curve cut the same in front and back.

Illusion; High collar made of a sheer fabric such as net, point d’esprit, or chiffon; appears almost invisible.

Jewel; High, rounded neckline with no collar or binding.

Off-the-shoulder: Falls just below the shoulder, with a collar or sleeve on the arm.

Portrait; Open neckline with a high back, gathered in front above the bustline.

Queen Anne;  High at nape of neck; sweeps low in front.

Scoop; Low, curved sweep extending to the shoulders; may be cut deep in front, back , or both.

Sweetheart; Low-cut, resembling the rounded curves of a heart.

V; Shaped like a V; cut deep or shallow in front, back, or both.

Wedding band collar; High, fitted collar popular in the 1890s.

Sleeves

Bishop; Full sleeve gathered into a band at the wrist.

Cap; Short sleeve that just covers the top of the arm.

Juliet; Long, fitted sleeve with baby doll puff at the shoulder.

Leg-o’-mutton; Wide and rounded at shoulder, fitting snugly on the lower arm; also called gigot.

Puff; Short, rounded sleeve; gathered at armhole or cuff.

Three-quarter; Ends just below the elbow; often finished with small cuff or band.

Wedding point; v-shaped extension of a long fitted sleeve that comes to a point over the bride’s hand.

Trains

Cathedral; Longer than one yard; reserved for the most formal weddings.

Chapel; Formal: extends about one yard.

Court; Separate piece of fabric that falls from the shoulders.

Detachable; Normally attached at back of waist, but may attach to the shoulders or wrap around the waist.

Sweep; Just brushes the floor.

Watteau; Cascades from the shoulders.

Veils

Ballet; Comes to just an inch above the floor; also called waltz.

Bird cage; Stiff netting covers the face, falls just below the chin.

Blusher; Loose, worn forward over the bride’s face or lifted back over the head piece.

Cathedral; Falls 3 1/2 yards from the headpiece; ultraformal.

Chapel; Falls 2 1/2 yards from the headpiece; formal.

Fingertip; Most popular style, reaches to the fingertips; suitable for all but ultraformal gowns.

Flyaway; Multiple layers that just brush the shoulders.

Waltz; Comes to just an inch above the floor.

Headpieces

Floral wreath; Worn over the forehead or nestled in the hair.

Juliet cap; Fits tightly to crown of head; may be made entirely of pearls or jewels.

Mantilla: Lace veil worn surrounding face.

Profile; Decorative comb worn on one side of head silhouetting the face.

Tiara; Crown that rests on top of the head.

Glossary of Fabrics

Alencon lace; Delicate lace with a pattern of neatly arranged flowers and swags outlined with cord.

Batiste; Soft, sheer, lightweight fabric woven in cotton, wool, silk, and rayon.

Battenberg lace; Type of lace made by applying Battenberg tape to a design and linking it with decorative stitching.

Bengaline; Heavyweight ribbed fabric; may be wool, cotton, rayon, or silk.

Brocade; Heavyweight fabric with raised design woven on a Jacquard loom; may be silk, cotton, or synthetic.

Carrickmacross; A guipure lace made in Scotland with fine needlepoint stitches or appliqué.

Chantilly lace; Delicate bobbin lace with hexagonal mesh background and floral designs.

Charmeuse; Lightweight, smooth fabric woven from silk, cotton, or rayon, with slight luster.

Chiffon; Light, transparent fabric of silk, cotton, rayon, or synthetics.

Crepe Charmeuse; Pebbly textured; lays flat and clings.

Crushed Velvet; Velvet with an irregular surface.

Damask; Originally silk woven on a Jacquard loom, with high luster designs on a flat background; now made of cotton, linen, or synthetics.
Duchesse Satin; Lightweight, flossy satin-weave fabric; may be silk or rayon.

Dupioni; A thicker, coarse, slubby silk weave.

Eyelet; Cotton or linen fabric with openwork pattern “punched” out and embroidery worked around each hole.

Faille; Thick, ribbed, crisp fabric of silk or silk-rayon.

Georgette; Very sheer, lightweight silk, cotton, or synthetic.

Grow de Londres; Fine, flat ribbed silk or rayon; see also bengaline, faille.

Guipure lace; Heavy tape lace characterized by large motifs with few connecting bars.

Illusion; Fine tulle, maline, or net.

Jacquard; Wide variety of patterned dress-weight cloth made on a Jacquard loom, may be silk, rayon, or synthetic.

Lame; fabric woven with metallic threads; often blended with silk or rayon to appear to be molten silver or gold.

Lined; Crisp, lightweight fabric woven from fibers of flax plants.

Maline; Very fine net.

Marquisette; Soft, transparent bet; virtually weightless.

Matelasse; Originally, silk quilted to create a puckered appearance; now made of silk, cotton, rayon, wool, or synthetic fibers.

Moiré; stiff, heavy, ribbed fabric with pattern that resembles melting jagged stripes; may be silk, rayon, or synthetic.

Net; Heavyweight meshilike weave,.

Organdy; Crisp, sheer, lightweight cloth; can be woven from silk or cotton.

Ottoman; Heavy, luxurious, ribbed weave of silk, rayon, cotton, wool, or synthetic fibers.

Paper taffeta; Very crisp taffeta.

Peau de soie; Heavy satin woven with fine ribbon, giving it a distinctive dull luster, its name means “skin of silk”.

Pique; Honeycomb weave, usually cotton; often used for cuffs and collars.
Point d’esprit; Sheer, almost transparent Cotton or Organza flecked with velvety white dots; also called Dotted Swiss.

Ribbon lace; Modem derivation of Battenberg and Renaissance Lace.

Satin; Densely woven silk with one lustrous and one matte side. Also made from Rayon and Synthetics.

Schiffi; All over embroidery design with running stitches instead of knots.

Shantung; Plain weave Silk or synthetic fabric with rough, randomly  nubby texture, produced by weaving uneven fibers together.

Taffeta; Crisp, lightweight fabric with a smooth finish, made in silk,  cotton, rayon, and synthetics.

Tissue taffeta; Thin, almost transparent taffeta.

Tulle; Sheer meshlike weave with hexagonal holes; made of silk, nylon, or rayon. Also called illusion, maline, or net.

Velvet; Originally silk, now also of rayon or cotton, double woven with a short, thick pile; plush and soft to the touch.

Velveteen; Cotton or rayon velvet; single woven.

Venice Lace; Needlepoint lace of floral motifs connected with irregularly spaced bridges.


Proper Care Of Your Wedding Gown



You will never own anything quite as symbolic or lovely as your wedding gown. It is an important token of the most beautiful day of your life. Protect this special dress by following these simple suggestions.



Allow time for professional dry-cleaning if you are wearing an “heirloom” gown. Make certain the trim such as pearls, beads and sequins are sewn on the gown,



When the wedding and reception is over you should persevere your gown as a treasured keepsake for you may have a daughter to wear it on her wedding day.

The International Fabric Care Institute Association of Professional day cleaners recommend careful dry-cleaning before you store your wedding gown.



Food and beverage stains are sometimes rarely visible to the eye, and they often yellow over time. The hemline can become soiled easily.

Bridal Salons will have your gown professionally preserved.
 Dry cleaners will also preserve your gown. They pack your dress in a special storage box that offers protection from the dust in the air. Keep your cherished gown in a cool dry closet. Not in the garage, storage shed, attic or basement.



If you store your dress on a hanger sew some straps to the dress to relieve the pressure on the shoulders from its weight.
Then wrap a sheet of muslin around the gown to protect it. Stuff the selves and the bodice with white tissue paper to prevent winking.

Even with all this protection five out of ten gowns still yellow a bit. The veil and headpiece, fragile and difficult to preserve, and may deteriorate even in the best of conditions.
You should inspect your gown occasionally while in storage. Just to be sure all is well.

Some salons also preserve dresses in a lovely storage box.

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